Gerard in Canada

Along the Rue St. Paul

2007-10-07T12:25:00.000Z

Walking back along the street I couldn't help but notice these buildings. Hidden behind the pillars of the highway was this church built in the same style as the Château Frontenac and the buildings at the Gare du Palais like railway station and the Canada Service offices. It looked almost forgotten. And yet it is one more thread woven into the fabric of Québec. I love the consistancy of architecture of the city. Threads pop up here and there in unexpected places.

Further down the road twards the hotel are buildings from different periods. The sun reflecting off the roof of the spire on these buildings from the Georgian period caught my eye.

It's like travelling back and forth through time. In this part of the city the time that had been has been respected and reinterpreted in newer, modern structures without distracting from them. By the way the wired dome on this building is a beauty by night.

Having said all that, one block down and the view leads to this. A steaming power plant in the city reminds me of travelling down the hills of into the city of Prague. It also reminded me of Edmonston with all the steam billowing out of the chimneys. And then there was that other curious construction...

Rue Saint Paul - Boulevard Charest Est

2007-10-03T22:51:00.001Z

Place: Québec.
Time: around 07.00 hrs.
Destination: Rue Saint Paul - Boulevard Charest Est.
Reason: murals under the highway.

I had only seen these online but was I glad the place we rented the car from had an office on the boulevard. That's how I found out where they were. And just a few blocks from the hotel and bus/train station as well. Perfect!

For some reason I woke up that morning really early and decided to sneak out of the hotel and bring the camera with me. I guess I also needed time alone to say au revoir to Quebec. Funny how you can fall in love with places you've only heard stories of and find out the love is real!

Night time Quebec

2007-10-02T22:10:00.000Z

Having found a hotel, eaten at a Belgian Restaurent of all places, we also found the train and bus station and my final pic of the day is all about water. Perfect ending to a day spent near the St. Laurent River and Montmorency Falls.

Having reached the top

2007-10-02T21:35:00.001Z

Of course we had to cross the suspension bridge over the falls. But I hate heights. I really do. Even knowing hundreds of thousands of people had crossed the bridge before me, I still had to reach down deep inside me to pluck up the courage to walk across. Not the most enjoyable experience in my life let me tell you. Suspension bridges in Canada somehow all seem to have some sway in them and of course it was just my luck that this bridge was frequented by joggers. I don't like joggers!

Anyway before crossing I did take some time to see behind the falls. The Montmorency rivers looked so placid. Seeing them like that made it hard to imagine that that much water flowing over the edge could be that impressive. So unlike the peaceful mirror up top.

Deep breath! Despite my fears I couldn't not look over the side of the railing. In one word: Wow!

Taken from the observation deck on the other side of the bridge.

The final photo of La Chute Montmorency. Back on terra firma before we make our way back down to go find a place to spend the night and find out where the bus station is located. Tomorrow we travel to Montreal.

Earthen fort

2007-10-01T22:57:00.000Z

On top of the cliff in the park at the falls you can see the remains of the earthen fort built by General Wolfe in 1759. Previous attempts to capture the city at the landings below Quebec city had failed and he was driven back and defeated at Montmorency Falls by General Montcalm. The culmination of the following three-month siege by the British, came on September 13, 1759 in a battle that lasted less than an hour (17 minutes according to wikipedia!) when General Wolfe and his men staged a succesful attack by climbing the cliffs below the Plains of Abraham. Both Generals died of wounds inflicted at the battle. Wolfe's death is depicted in this painting by Benjamin West.

View from Space

2007-10-01T22:41:00.000Z

I came across this photo taken by one of the NASA satelites when I was looking for info on the Montmorency Falls. You can actually see the bridge across the fleuve St. Laurent and where the Montmorency river flows into it as well as the Île D'Orléans and Quebec city. More info on their World Wind programme and where to download it can be found: here (English only)

Up on the cliff

2007-10-01T22:09:00.000Z

The view is spectacular from the top of the stairs. You can see the bridge across to the Île d'Orléans, a suburban farm island that is 8 kilometres wide and 32 km long, known for it's fertile microclimate that is wonderful for growing all kinds of produce especially fruit. The bridge to the island is the only way across and there's barely enough room for more than one car on it as you go across. There's a really wonderful spot on the tip of the island that has a great view of the harbour, the city and Château Frontenac. Sheer magic by night!

No better place than here to watch the sun set over the city (pic by Carmen).

Becoming a stairmaster

2007-10-01T19:18:00.000Z

Like a giant snake the stairs wind their way up a sandstone cliff, each level offering a different view of the falls, Quebec, the surroundings. Oh, and more steps!

Chute de Montmorency

2007-10-01T18:49:00.000Z

Another must see when you're in Quebec, la Chute de Montmorency. Absolutely stunning on a day like we had, basking in the late evening sun just before sunset. I've seen them displayed in technicolour at nighttime as well. I'd love to see them during the winterfestival when they are covered in meters of ice. At 83 meters they are the highest waterfalls in Quebec and about 30 meters higher than the Niagara Falls. The views from the cliff are tremendous. You can either climb your way to the top using the stairs or take a cable car up. We took the stairs.

If I ever go back

2007-09-25T00:32:00.000Z

I would like to go inside and see the Cyclorama of Jerusalem.

More of the Basilica

2007-09-25T00:21:00.000Z

Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré

2007-09-24T22:26:00.000Z

Last time I was in Canada I can remember seeing the spires of the Basilica of St-Anne-de-Beaupré so after our hike and climb in the park near Stoneham-Tewkesbury we decided to give Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré a visit.

On a day like the day we visited it's not hard to imagine why it draws so many people to visit it. It's like a dazzling beacon in the sunlight. As the oldest pelgrimage site in North America it draws nearly a million and a half visitors each year. It's history dates back to 1658 when the first church and shrine was built on the site. And it's first reported miracle at the site happened during the shrine’s construction. A man named Louis Guimond was hired to help build the shrine even though he suffered from rheumatism. After placing three stones upon the shrine’s foundation, Guimond was cured of all his ailments. This was followed by other testimonies of healed people and shrine soon grew in popularity.

After being destroyed by fires and having been demolished to make more room for the worshippers that visited, the present basilica dates from 1923. I have only two photos to show of the inside, all the other pics I have binned as they were all a blur. This first one is also blurry but it was something that caught my eye as I was leaving. Attached to the pilars are the walking canes and crutches of people who have left the basilica healed of their ailments. Despite the blurriness of the image I felt it was worth showing.

This second image is of the ceilings inside. They are awe inspiring. As someone who is a non believer (an atheist to be precise), the details and love put into these ceilings are truly remarkable.

More info on the basilica can be found here and more info on who Saint Anne, the patron saint of Quebec, was can be found here

Summit view

2007-09-24T20:50:00.000Z

Dappled red and yellow amongst the green of fir trees I can't help but wonder if somewhere down there are the homes of Claudine and Maryse and which ones they are. The view is wonderful up here, perfect for a picnic!

Natures finest

2007-09-24T20:32:00.000Z

Autumn approaches and before your eyes green turns to gold turns to red.

Life and death are part of the same cycle. The death of a tree brings life to the other plants and trees that survive.

Stoneham-Tewkesbury

2007-09-24T14:38:00.000Z

After a wonderful day in Québec and a quiet evening with Jean and Claudine we spent the next day visiting the surrounding countryside and our first stop was at a provincial park not far from Stoneham-Tewkesbury. I forget the name of the park, maybe Jean knows? We spent the morning climbing the mountain and following the trail to the top. Along the way we passed many great big rocks and boulders that were named. Sorry I can't find the little map that has all the names on them but we did get to see the start of autumn and the trees being set afire in that blaze of glory that happens each year before winter approaches.

Le Fontaine Quebecoise

2007-09-23T17:13:00.000Z

Browsing the net I still haven't found out the name of this fountain. For now I'll just call it Le Fontaine Quebecoise. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I do find it a strange structure in a sense. It looks like it belongs on top of a church spire. The flying butresses, buttress pier and the pinnacle's surrounding the central structure give it a Gothic appearance as do the decorative crockets above the arches. And on top a religious figure holding a cross. There are definitely references being made to church architecture on every level. The regal lions spouting water, the essence of life, a reference to the kingdom of heaven, the bounty to be found there and life never ending?

Loving the ornateness

2007-09-23T16:50:00.000Z

I love the roofs of the buildings in Canada in general but especially the ornateness of the metal casting on this roof and the patina of the copper. I have no idea what building it is but it can be seen from the ramparts of the previous post.

City walls

2007-09-23T16:33:00.000Z

Here's something thats still on my list of things to see in Québec City. I'd love to see more of the defensive walls, the Citadelle and the Plains of Abraham. We got a hint of them standing on the ramparts. I'd also love to see the changing of the guards. I've read they don't do it when it rains. Which I think is kind of funny.

Looking at the pics Carmen took

2007-09-23T16:29:00.001Z

I came across some really nice ones of Québec (she gave me a copy of all her pics for my birthday) and she took some great pics I'd like to share. While I was focussed on the beauty on top of the cannons she got a great pic of them lined up ready to defend the city.

And I think this is such a great shot of the Château Frontenac, the lighting is just amazing! It's golden.

Not the end...

2007-09-19T21:51:00.000Z

Of our time in Québec city, and I hope not my last visit to the city that's a cherished friend I would love to see more of and find out more about. Or the last time I go visit mes grandes soeurs Claudine & Maryse, mes grandes frères Vianney, Jean & Yves, maman Mariette et papa Leo, ma petite souer et frères Laurie, Cedric et François. It will take some time before we meet again but you are in my heart forever like Clément who brought us together and is no longer among us. I miss him. I know you do too.

And now I am going to post some pics of you ;). Don't worry, if anyone has any objections I will take them of the blog. These are pics Carmen and I took of you. I thought we took more but I ran out of batteries and Carmen ran out of film. But it is nice to have momentos like these!
Laurie, for some strange reason your father is in none of the pics I took of you all. Doesn't he like my camera?

By no means complete....

2007-09-19T21:04:00.000Z

A brief history lesson on some of the figures in the fresque.

#1 Jacques Cartier (1491-1557), was a French navigator hoping to discover a western passage to the wealthy markets of Asia who first explored and described the Gulf of St-Lawrence and the shores of the Saint Lawrence River, which he named Canada. He is not the first "European" to have discovered Canada. Although there has been little to no evidence found of earlier discoveries it has been visited by the Irish and the Vikings during earlier centuries.

#2 Samuel de Champlain (1570-1635) Fouded Quebec City in 1608. His first voyage was in 1603, when he went to Canada on a fur trading trip. He traveled down the St. Lawrence river and into the Hudson Bay. His second trip he went looking for settlement land. On his third trip he found settlement along the St. Lawrence River that eventually became Quebec.

#3 Comte de Frontenac (1622-1698) A French nobleman and soldier by trade, Louis de Buade, comte de Frontenac et de Palluau was twice appointed Governor-General of New France. During his second term he fought off an attack by British General Phips near Quebec City in 1696.
He is credited with having retorted to a demand of surrender by the British by saying: "Non, je n'ai point de réponse à faire à votre général que par la bouche de mes canons et de mes fusils." ("I have no reply to make to your general other than from the mouths of my cannons and muskets.").

#4 Jean Talon (1626-1694) arived in Quebec City in 1665; sent by Louis XIV as intendant, Under his governance, New France prospered. He is the first and most highly regarded Intendant of New France. He attempted to diversify the colony's economy by encouraging agriculture, fishing, lumbering, and industry as well as the traditional fur trade. He approved expedition plans to seek a western passage to China. In 1666, he conducted the first census in North America, counting 3,215 of its residents.

#5 Louis Jolliet (1645-1700), born in Quebec, discovered and mapped the Mississippi River. Famous as an explorer, he was also an organist, a merchant, a cartographer and a professor at the Collège des Jésuites. The city of Joliet, Illinois, in the United States is named after him.

#6 Lord Dufferin (1826-1902), Frederick Temple Blackwood Marquess of Dufferin and Ava. was appointed as the third Governor General of the Dominion of Canada from 1872 to 1878. Quebec City owes him a lot; he fought to preserve the fortified walls around the city citing they would become part of the heritage of the city. During his term several well-known Canadian institutions, such as the Supreme Court of Canada, the Royal Military College of Canada, and the Intercolonial Railway, were established. His final public appearance as Governor General was to lay the foundation stone for Dufferin Terrace, the walkway overlooking the St. Lawrence River built to his own design. After Canada, he was posted to Russia and India.

#7 Felix Leclerc (1914-1988) was a French-Canadian folk singer, poet, writer, actor and Québécois political activist and the father of Québécois song, reviving the Québec chanson tradition. He was also extremely popular in France. He was awarded the Order of Canada in 1971, the National Order of Quebec in 1985 and became a Chevalier of the French Légion d'honneur in 1986. You can visit his house on the Île d'Orléans, the island in the St. Laurent river opposite Québec. It has become a monument to his chansons, life and work. There's a 9 minute video (in French) on YouTube you can watch here

Up close - Fresque des Quebecois

2007-09-19T20:44:00.000Z

Fresque des Quebecois

2007-09-19T19:56:00.000Z

Another great fresco depicting Québec city and its historic figures through the seasons and the centuries. You can see it from Dufferin Terrace as you look over the ramparts but up close it's an amazing piece of work! It's so big and quite hard to take a full picture of.

Another view of Château Frontenac

2007-09-19T19:24:00.000Z

Continuing down the narrow cobblestoned streets towards the St. Laurent river to the ferry across it, looking back up the sight of the Château is once again spectacular!

Place Royale

2007-09-19T18:57:00.000Z

The birthplace of Quebec and to a very large degree North American history even though there are other, older settlements. This is where Samuel de Champlain began construction of his fortified habitation at the foot of Cap Diamant, in 1608 and the first permanent establishment in New France.

Rich merchants settle here and lively business develops in the area. It was then known as Place du Marché until a bust to the glory of Louis XIV is erected and it becomes Place Royale. Despite conquest by the English in 1629 and 1690 it continues to be a leading commercial and business centre till the latter part of the 19th century and the decline starts. By 1950 it is poor and rundown. However the importance of this site is recognised and it is restored to former glory.

Like other parts of Québec it is a major tourist site. Most of them inside the old fortifications. There is still so much there I'd love to see. Like La Citadelle and the Plains of Abraham from up high. And the inside of the oldest stone church in North America, l'Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires.

Tromp-l'oeil

2007-09-15T20:55:00.000Z

On researching Québec I came across pics of the tromp-l'oeil that can be found there, some of them posted by someone I once met on a forum I'm a member of, but nothing really prepared me for how amazing they truly were. This is the first we saw up close.

It can be found down in Quartier Petit Champlain in old Quebec and measures around 100 square metres (900 square feet). Located at 102 rue du Petit-Champlain, on the wall of the building owned by the Coopérative des Artisans et Commerçants du Quartier Petit Champlain.

The mural illustrates the origins of the Cap-Blanc neighbourhood, the bombardments in 1759, fires, landslides and other disasters to have befallen Quartier Petit Champlain over the years, as well as the strength and courage of those who built, lived, developed and breathed new life into this part of Quebec City. More info on the oldest commercial district in North America can be found here

Below some close-ups. The artistry of the work is amazing, small details like the colour of the paint of the windowsill and console above the painted window is the same as that of the real windows, consoles and eaves of the building. Even the brickwork is the same colour!

Brief Intermezzo

2007-09-15T20:30:00.000Z

I could really do with some coffee and New York Style cheesecake ;)

One word: YUMMY!

Je me rappelle toujours

2007-09-10T21:32:00.000Z

Le tarte au sucre chez Le Cochon Dingue. LOL! Maybe I am crazy!?

More lower city

2007-09-10T20:28:00.000Z

Down below

2007-09-10T20:14:00.000Z

The streets are steeper, narrower and full of boutiques, craftshops, cafés, restaurents that twist and turn, wind and lead to the old city, a national monument. In fact the city of Quebec is on the UNESCO World Heritage Sites list. Getting there is the fun part as you can either go down the L'Escalier Casse-Cou or Breakneck Steps as they are known in English. Or take an elevator down the fortification wall.

Getting around town

2007-09-10T00:00:00.001Z

Transport in Québec is somewhat different to what I had expected. I could not but help feel sorry for the horse and envious of the dog.

Our lady of Quebec City

2007-09-09T23:46:00.000Z

Like I mentioned in my previous post I have no photo's to show of the inside of the Notre-Dame de Québec Cathedral. The splendour of the inside prohibits taking photos without flash and I don't like using it unless it's night time. Still the outside of the church of the oldest parish in North America is more than worth looking at. More info here

Still strolling

2007-09-09T23:07:00.000Z

Suddenly I am overwhelmed to know who these men are and why they were of such importance to Quebec. I should have payed more attention at the time or researched it better but alas I have been somewhat remiss in posting these pics and the memories have faded somewhat.

I found out that Louis Hébert (photo's # 2 and 3) is the first Canadian apothecary as well as the first European to farm in Canada. I think that is why his statue is a double one showing him reaping his harvest and standing beside his plough. On the other side of this statue are bronzes of his wife marie Rollet and their children.

Photo # 4 shows Samuel de Champlain, the founder of Quebec City and father of "New France". Countless streets, avenues, statues, bridges, squares can be found all over Quebec commemorating this historical figure

Laval (photo 5) is a name I remember so well. Not only did Clément go to Laval University, so does Laurie. François-Xavier de Montmorency-Laval was the first Bishop of what was then known as New France and started the "Séminaire de Québec", a theological school which eventually also had lay students and finally became Université Laval. His sarcophagus can be found in the Cathedral in Quebec. We went in there but sadly, or should I say as usual, none of the photo's I took inside are any good.

That still leaves me with the first statue. I have no idea who it is.

A stroll around town

2007-09-09T21:49:00.000Z

There's nothing like a guided tour of a city you don't know to see the sights you might otherwise have missed. The grandure of Quebec city is in keeping with it's age and - I almost hate to say this - its frenchness (I am aware that the history between Quebec and France has not always been an easy one).
But the winding streets and regal buildings do remind me in some ways of parts of Paris. And in other ways of London and Antwerp. The many statues commemorating famous historical figures add to that grandure. Pride in being the oldest city in North America with a history that is 400 years old oozes from the builings and said streets. It has been looked after, cherished and recognized for the historic value it has in today's world.

Château Frontenac

2007-09-09T12:14:00.001Z

There's no escaping the Château Frontenac wherever you are in the centre of Quebec City and the châteauesque style of this hotel is worth the trip to Quebec alone. It was for me anyway. Ever since I'd heard about it I wanted to see it and walk along the boardwalk and see it from every possible angle. Opened in 1893 it was the third hotel of this kind designed by Bruce Price for the Canadian Pacific Railway Company. It's turrets and towers are very reminiscent of the Scottish Baronial and French Chateau style. It's huge and I love it!

Looking down

2007-09-08T20:43:00.000Z

At the old city, it's colourful roofs shine brightly between the trees on the cliff up above. Later on we were taken on a tour of this part of Quebec. Its' pride and rightly so.

Looking out over the Saint Laurent

2007-09-08T20:09:00.000Z

The view from the walls behind the old city and the boardwalk in front of the Chateau Frontenac offers a wonderful view of the old city down below, Quebec across the St. Laurent, the mountains in the distance and the Isle d'Orleans.

Some of the canons used to defend the city are still in place.

I can't help but wonder how well the city would have been defended by the fair maiden on top of this canon.

Further along the boardwalk and the view opens up revealing an amazing panorama.

Chateau Frontenac

2007-02-10T00:00:00.000Z

Someone once said...

2007-02-09T23:55:00.000Z

...beauty comes from within. I don't know why but while I was posting these photo's that's what was going through my mind. It is true. I know it is usually said when we talk about people and not things but this city's beauty comes from within as well. Québecs beauty comes from the heart of its city, its center, even on a rainy day like this one.

Québec City, day 1

2007-02-09T23:46:00.000Z

Why is it no matter where you are in the world you can spot an American a mile off? These two ladies and gent crossed the road before I could get my camera out and take a pic of them. They were identical in so many ways they were like peas in a pod, same hair, same rain poncho, same accent and mannerisms and they looked similar when they waddled across the street to that lovely looking restaurant.

Saint-Jean-Port-Joli

2007-02-09T13:10:00.000Z

On the road to Québec once more. As we left the beautiful New Brunswick we were soon driving along the fleuve Saint-Laurent. I can't describe just how beautiful it is. Even on a day like this one, grey, cloudy, rain pouring down, there is something so magical about it and I wish I could have stopped the car more often to take more photo's but as we all know stopping every hundred meters or so doesn't get you anywhere in the end (well not to Québec City). By the way, that seagull was our new best friend while we sat in the car taking shelter from the downpour. Did you know that seagulls eat apples?

Edmundston

2007-02-09T12:47:00.000Z

I suppose that anyone from Edmundston will be angry when they read this but there isn't much that is positive to say about the town. It stinks! No wonder with 4 papermills that give the place a certain odour of je ne sais quoi. People were noisy driving up and down the streets in their cars, honking their horns, proclaiming their presence, lots of drunk people sitting in shop entrances or just generally hanging around, a feeling of agression somehow seemed to pervade the place. On the bright side the food was good, the waitress was really nice and very friendly (no wonder - she was part Irish) and we did get some sleep even if the motel did feel like it was where prostitutes entertained their tricks. Well, anyway enjoy the pics...

View of the Sugarloaf

2007-02-07T22:58:00.000Z

View of Sugarloaf Mountain.
On the way to Edmundston we stopped just outside of Campbellton to take in the view and have a break. Looking back I wish we had stopped before or in Campbellton. The views as we drove down through the hills and mounts were sublime.

Miles and miles of road...

2007-02-07T22:48:00.000Z

Miles and miles of quiet roads and highways stretch across the Apalachian Mountains as we weave our way towards Edmundston...

Maybe not La Vache qui Rit

2007-02-07T22:39:00.000Z

cute cows nevertheless! If only they could have posed for the camera a bit better...

I wonder if these birds survived

2007-02-07T22:34:00.000Z

I can't help but wonder if any of them survived Thanksgiving or Christmas. Such fine actors as these that also play their part in the Acadian Village sure deserve better fates than ending up on a dinner table at the hotel in the park.

More historical village

2007-02-07T22:30:00.000Z

L'Acadie

2007-02-07T22:17:00.000Z

Not far from the wonderful town of Caraquet lies the Acadian Historical Village where you get an idea of what life might have been like through the past centuries. One of the great things about it is the love of the actors who play the parts of the villagers. The weaver, the farmer, the teacher, pub owner and other players will tell you what life was like in either English or French, while they weave, farm, serve and teach and do many of the other things people did to make a living in the 17th, 18th, 19th and early 20th century.